Frankincense has been in use for the reason that daybreak of time. Nicknamed the “king of oils”, this treasured resin from the Boswellia tree has been used for millennia in spiritual ceremonies, Ayurvedic and Chinese language medication, aromatherapy, perfumery, and cosmetics. Each its attribute heat, woodsy scent and highly effective anti-inflammatory properties make it the proper addition to your do-it-yourself skincare formulations, particularly these focused at mature pores and skin.

Nonetheless, this ingredient isn’t with out its challenges and controversy within the magnificence world.

Over the previous few years, frankincense has been over-harvested as a result of elevated market demand, which has endangered the lifetime of Frankincense-producing bushes. There’s rising consciousness of the necessity for moral and sustainable practices surrounding frankincense, and options are being launched to make sure its sustainable and moral harvesting.

On this weblog put up, you’ll be taught in regards to the historical past and origins of Frankincense, its advantages in skincare, in addition to moral frankincense sourcing, so you’ll be able to implement essentially the most accountable magnificence practices from the beginning.

Frankincense by way of time: spirituality and cosmetics

Few components have such historic significance as frankincense. This fragrant resin has a protracted historical past of use, courting again so far as the earliest recorded historical past of man.

Frankincense has been used since historic occasions and has a protracted historic correlation with spirituality and faith. It has been traded for over 5,000 years in areas of the Center East and North Africa and was thought of to be price greater than gold. Allegedly, Babylonians and Assyrians burned the resin throughout spiritual ceremonies, and the traditional Egyptians used it as incense in sacred rituals, notably within the sacred incense preparation kyphi (i). Frankincense was additionally a key element within the embalming course of and was additional used as an insect repellent, fragrance, and in salves.

These days, frankincense is a very talked-about ingredient in perfumery, aromatherapy and skincare and has confirmed anti-inflammatory qualities.

Frankincense – sustainability and moral points

We’ll contact in short on the sustainability points now and we urge you to carry them in your thoughts whilst you learn the listing of a number of the beauty extracts and makes use of of frankincense. Later on this put up, we clarify in additional depth the moral points behind the manufacturing of frankincense.

Frankincense, also called olibanum, is a milky white resin derived from the Boswellia sacra tree, of the Burseraceae household. There are over 550 species of Burseraceae, also called the “incense tree household”, discovered throughout Africa and the Arabian Peninsula.

The resin of those bushes is harvested by tapping. Nonetheless, this could weaken the tree, cut back its capability to breed and depart it uncovered to insect harm and illness. Not solely intensive tapping of the resin endanger the way forward for Boswellia bushes, nevertheless it additionally strongly impacts native communities whose livelihoods depend upon this historic manner of harvesting. Whereas restricted, artisanal ranges of harvesting frankincense permits bushes to relaxation and recuperate between tapping durations, rising demand for the resin has seen the over-exploitation of the bushes resulting in their degradation and harm.

Frankincense – valued advantages for our pores and skin

Frankincense has a novel, calming scent and has many anti-inflammatory compounds, known as boswellic acids (molecules produced by the Boswellia bushes) which can be of nice profit in cosmetics geared toward mature pores and skin. Their anti-inflammatory properties, could also be helpful for photoaged pores and skin, in addition to oily and atopic pores and skin (ii, iii, iv), and for decreasing the seen indicators of scar tissue (v).

Different attention-grabbing anti-inflammatory and antioxidant compounds embody alpha-pinene, alpha-thujene, and limonene. These are all monoterpenes, a household of molecules discovered within the high notes of important oils. Keep in mind that these chemical compounds and their focus differ relying upon the number of the frankincense. It is best to have the ability to receive all this data out of your ingredient’s SDS sheet. See our put up:

learn security information sheets

Frankincense beauty components

Let’s speak now in regards to the totally different beauty components derived from frankincense to be used in beauty formulation.

Frankincense hydrosol

INCI: Boswellia carterii gum water

Frankincense hydrosol is a good basis ingredient to make use of in your formulations as an alternative of water. It will increase the consequences of your closing product, as frankincense hydrosol accommodates highly effective anti-inflammatory advantages suited to delicate, problematic and mature pores and skin. It is usually an excellent different to frankincense important oil – it has a extra beneficial value level – and has a sweeter aroma.

We advocate you utilize frankincense hydrosol within the water part of your emulsions or water-based cleansers, or apply it straight as a sprig mist, avoiding the eyes, to tone or refresh the pores and skin.

You will discover out extra about hydrosols in addition to the problems surrounding their preservation in our intensive posts beneath:

The formulator’s information to hydrosols
Are you shopping for contaminated hydrosols?
5 the explanation why your pure formulations want preserving
All the things you wished to learn about pure preservatives

Frankincense important oils

There’s little readability in regards to the varied kinds of frankincense and their important oils. Not solely is there confusion over the nomenclature, however some oils have been assigned incorrect origins (vi). On this part, we’ll point out the principle business frankincense important oils, however there are a lot of others. To tell apart them, it’s essential to examine their INCI identify. It’s vitally essential to know the range you might be shopping for as some are exploited virtually to the purpose of endangering the species. We check out this and different sustainability points later.

Understand that outdated or oxidised oils could cause pores and skin sensitisation, in addition to undiluted important oils. Moreover, important oils aren’t really useful to be used throughout being pregnant or whereas breastfeeding. Discover out extra about important oil security and the sustainability of important oils beneath:

Podcast 6: Important oil security with Robert Tisserand
Podcast 75: How sustainable are important oils?

Boswellia sacra resin oil: This aromatic important oil is native to Somalia and is obtained from the steam distillation of the gum resin of the Boswellia Sacra tree, the first tree within the Boswellia genus. This tree produces resin when it’s about 8-10 years outdated, which is then harvested to supply frankincense important oil. This emollient and perfuming important oil has a contemporary, fruity, and spicy aroma, which blends properly with spicy and citrus oils.

Use it between 0.25-3% of your complete system in water-based or anhydrous merchandise for a stunning perfume. At all times double-check the really useful quantity along with your provider and its dermal limits, as totally different formulations require totally different quantities.

Boswellia carterii oil: Also called olibanum, this selection additionally has a woodsy, balsamic, and fruity perfume, however is extracted from the bottom gum of the Boswellia carterii tree. Usually utilized in herbalism as a remedy for varied wounds, it’s used as an anti-inflammatory ingredient in cosmetics. Incorporate it in emulsions or anhydrous merchandise within the cool-down part to supply a soothing impact.

Boswellia serrata oil: Also called Indian frankincense, Boswellia serrata important oil can be utilized as a substitute for the Carterri selection, because it has comparable properties. With a sweeter aroma, Boswellia serrata presents soothing, calming, balancing, astringent, and anti inflammatory properties. It’s usually used as a base perfumery be aware or in anti-inflammatory merchandise. Strive combining it with different anti-inflammatory components resembling calendula or chamomile within the cool-down part of your emulsions or anhydrous merchandise for a soothing impact and a nice perfume.

Frankincense resin powder

INCI: Boswellia carterii resin extract

Final however not least, now we have frankincense resin powder, which is an off-white powder derived from Boswellia bushes. This powder presents attention-grabbing anti-inflammatory properties. It is usually usually used to fragrance cosmetics due to its attribute heat and spicy perfume.

Add frankincense powder to your lotions and serums within the heated water part, dissolving it first, or to your stable formulations resembling cleaning bars or therapeutic massage bars. Frankincense powder also can current exfoliating properties. It’s attention-grabbing so as to add to water-based formulations or emulsions, or to combine with different dry powders to create a stunning face cleanser that you simply activate with water. We propose you attempt incorporating frankincense powder into the water part of an exfoliating gel or a cream. Watch out to make use of a protecting masks when working with powders to keep away from absorbing any particles.

Listed below are some options of formulation you’ll be able to incorporate frankincense powder to:

Stable formulations: make a stable cleaning bar
6 stable magnificence bars good for rookies to make at dwelling
formulate a face cleaning powder

Can frankincense ever be sustainable?

Whereas frankincense is an incredible ingredient, its continued use can result in many sustainability points, which is why this can be very essential to analysis your components and pay attention to the environmental and social challenges they might trigger. On this part, we focus on the sustainability of frankincense and what you are able to do as a formulator to supply sustainable frankincense.

Over the previous few years, there was vital over-harvesting of frankincense bushes, particularly of Indian and African frankincense. The harvesting course of could be very damaging to the tree, because the sap is extracted from the bushes by tapping. And whereas this course of ought to solely occur twice a 12 months, it occurs extra regularly to maintain up with international calls for, endangering the bushes and biodiversity.

That is largely brought on by market demand and managing practices, which contribute to the decline in frankincense tree populations and a complication of the provision chain (vii). This may additionally result in short-term unsustainable practices, resembling an absence of traceability and transparency, in addition to counterfeit frankincense merchandise (vii). Consumers are in search of cheaper substitutions, that are then in flip altered, whereas actual frankincense could be actually costly.

Progress on sustainable frankincense

The excellent news is that new applied sciences and approaches are always rising to incentivise sustainable practices and supply frankincense ethically, in addition to assist native communities. Some of the current applied sciences can display screen and determine the authenticity of business frankincense merchandise by way of a fast mass spectrometry methodology, screening frankincense samples and evaluating them to a reference pattern (viii). Planting new frankincense bushes is one other method to counter the over-harvesting of frankincense.

Sure areas and nations are rising to the problem by creating nationwide initiatives, usually supported by worldwide public our bodies and personal firms, to advertise sustainable, low-level artisanal harvesting, the safety of historic frankincense websites, and the replanting of Boswellia bushes. Only one instance of such intervention and consciousness elevating is the work of the Setting Society of Oman (ESO) which is geared toward defending and preserving Boswellia serrata bushes within the Sultanate of Oman. Sponsors of the ESO’s work have included UK-based Neal’s Yard Cures, which sells cosmetics infused with frankincense in addition to the neat important oil.

Nonetheless, so long as the demand retains rising, there can’t be an actual sustainable option to harvest frankincense, as producing and consuming extra is the other of sustainability. In truth, the ESO says that the Boswellia sacra selection is listed as “Close to Threatened” on the The Worldwide Union for Conservation of Nature Crimson Checklist of Threatened Species.

The place does that depart you as a formulator?

Armed with the data above – and your personal additional analysis – you will want to make moral selections about whether or not to incorporate frankincense in your formulations. For those who select to harness its advantages in your formulations, you will want to make sure you know the provenance of your frankincense oils or extracts and buy solely after researching your ingredient, its provide chain and provider totally with a purpose to perceive the place it comes from and the way it was harvested. Ask about its origins, harvesting, and extraction, in addition to its impression on native communities earlier than making a purchase order.

Prioritise unbiased and native producers of frankincense components which can be licensed natural, or are on the very least wildlife-friendly, and have information to again it up which they will present you. You will discover additional data on the sustainability of your frankincense species on technical information sheets and threatened plant species lists resembling CITES.

analysis beauty components for natural skincare
7 tips about sourcing sustainable botanical components
Episode 79: The problem of sourcing pure components

For those who’re all for launching your personal sustainable magnificence model, these assets would possibly enable you to:

15 certification schemes for sustainable magnificence
5 sustainable practices on your magnificence enterprise
Podcast 23: Beginning an moral skincare enterprise
Podcast 163: Sustainable magnificence made less complicated and smarter
Episode 85: The reality about wild harvested magnificence

Your path into sustainable beauty formulation

In conclusion then, frankincense is an excellent anti-inflammatory ingredient, however one with appreciable moral issues to tackle board if you happen to choose to make use of it in your formulations.

We encourage you to embrace sustainability from the beginning of your journey into pure, natural formulation, by way of our free coaching and licensed diploma programs, in addition to inside our unique membership-only website, the Lab at Formulation Botanica.

Do share your ideas about frankincense within the feedback beneath or on our social media.

Additional studying and references

(i) Anthony Dweck, 2017. Handbook of pure components (Fourth version)
(ii) Stefano Togni, et al, 2014: Clin Cosmet Investig Dematol, 2014. A cosmeceutical formulation based mostly on boswellic acids for the remedy of erythematous eczema and psoriasis.
(iii) Han et al, 2017. Organic actions of frankincense important oil in human dermal fibroblasts.
(iv) Alessandra Pedretti, et al; 2010: Planta Med, 2010. Results of Topical Boswellic Acid on Photograph and Age-Broken Pores and skin: Medical, Biophysical, and Echographic Evaluations in a Double-Blind, Randomized, Break up-Face Research.
(v) Piergiacamo Calzavara-Pinton, et al; Dermatol Ther. 2010. Topical Boswellic acids for remedy of photoaged pores and skin.
(vi) Robert Tisserand and Rodney Younger, 2013. Important oil security (Second version).
(vii) Anjanette De Carlo et al, 2020. Ecological and Financial Sustainability of Non-Timber Forest Merchandise in Publish-Battle Restoration: A Case Research of the Frankincense (Boswellia spp.) Resin Harvesting in Somaliland (Somalia).
(vii) Brendler et al, 2018. Sustainable provide, a basis for pure product improvement: the case of Indian frankincense.
(viii) Lai et al, 2022. Identification of Industrial Frankincense Merchandise by MALDITOF Mass Spectrometry.

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Ariane is a broadcast journalist, weblog author, and content material creator for Formulation Botanica. Her areas of focus embody magnificence, human curiosity, and humanities and tradition. Ariane has been a member of the Formulation Botanica group since 2021.